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Guide

How to check an AI-made framing takeoff

By Ephraim Shapiro, founder of BinaDesk ·

AI tools can turn a set of house plans into a list of materials in minutes. Often it’s close. When it’s wrong, it looks exactly the same, and you find out at the lumber yard or on the job site. Here is how to check it, in the order that catches the most mistakes for the least effort.

The short version. Don’t ask the AI whether it got it right. Compare the takeoff with the plans themselves: the scale, the walls, the doors and windows, the wall heights and the totals. Each check below catches a different kind of mistake. For why these mistakes happen, see Eight mistakes AI makes in a framing takeoff.

1. The plans were measured at the right scale

Plans are drawn to scale, such as a quarter inch on paper for every foot of house. On each floor plan, pick three measurements written on it, such as the overall width of the house and the sizes of two rooms. Compare them with the lengths the takeoff measured in the same places. If they’re all off by the same amount, that page was measured at the wrong scale, and every wall on it is wrong. Do this one first: no other check can catch it.

2. The outside walls add up to the size of the house

For each floor, add up the lengths the takeoff gives for the outside walls. Compare the total with the distance around the house, worked out from the overall measurements written on the plans. If the takeoff’s total is too long, a wall was probably counted twice where two walls meet, or measured past its corner. Then look at the walls between rooms: each one should be on the list once, not once for each room it separates.

3. Every door and window on the plans is on the list

Plans label each door and window with a short code, such as 3068 for a door 3 feet wide and 6 feet 8 inches tall. Count the labels on each floor plan, then count the doors and windows the takeoff lists for that floor. The numbers should match, and each row should show the same label as the plan. A window read as a door, or a door left off, shows up here.

4. Each door and window is the size the plans give it

Start with the widest ones: the garage door, the patio door, windows set side by side. Each should be framed to the size its label, the window maker’s size chart or a note on the plans gives, not to the gap drawn on the page. Then look at any wide opening between two rooms with a beam over it: if the plans show no wall there, nothing should be built there.

5. The wall heights come from the drawings of the outside of the house

The elevations, the drawings of the house as seen from outside, show how tall each floor’s walls are. Compare each height with the length of the studs (the upright boards inside the walls) the takeoff ordered for that floor. Check the attic too: walls under the sloping roof are shorter, and they aren’t covered with panels like the outside walls below.

6. The notes on the plans are followed

Read the notes printed on the plans. They give the size of the beams over doors and windows, any special engineered beams, the panels that cover the walls, and sometimes a table of extra studs beside wide openings. Each should show up in the takeoff the way the notes say. Anything marked OPT. (optional) should be listed separately, not ordered.

7. Every total adds up all its rows

Click each quantity on the order and look at what its formula adds up. It should include every row it’s meant to, in the right column, for the right floor. A formula that stops one row short gives a total that looks right and isn’t.

A quick checklist

  1. The plans were measured at the right scale.
  2. The outside walls add up to the size of the house.
  3. Every door and window on the plans is on the list.
  4. Each door and window is the size the plans give it.
  5. The wall heights come from the drawings of the outside of the house.
  6. The notes on the plans are followed, and optional items are listed separately.
  7. Every total adds up all its rows.